There are two
traditional iced teas in the United States. The only variation
between them is sugar.
Southerners swear by their traditional sweet ice tea and drink it by
the gallons. In the South, ice tea is not just a summertime drink,
it is served year round with most meals. When people order tea in a
Southern restaurant, chances are they will get sweet ice tea.
Outside of the
southern states, iced tea is served unsweetened or “black,” and most
people have never even heard of sweet tea.
18th Century
1795
- South Carolina is the first place in the United States where tea
was grown and is the only state to ever have produced tea
commercially. Most historians agree that the first tea
plant arrived in this country in the late 1700s when French
explorer and botanist,
Andre Michaux (1746-1802/3?), imported it as well as other beautiful
and showy varieties of camellias, gardenias and azaleas to suit the
aesthetic and acquisitive desires of wealthy Charleston planters. He
planted tea near Charleston at Middleton Barony, now known as
Middleton Place Gardens.
19th Century
1800's
- English and American cookbooks shows us that tea has been
served cold at least since the early nineteenth century, when cold
green tea punches, that were heavily spiked with liquor, were
popularized. The oldest recipes in print are made with green tea and
not black tea and were called punches. The tea punches went by names
such as Regent's Punch, named after George IV, the English prince
regent between 1811 until 1820, and king from 1820 to 1830.
By the middle of the nineteenth
century, American versions of this punch begin to acquire regional
and even patriotic names, such as Charleston's St. Cecilia Punch
(named for the musical society whose annual ball it graced), and
Savannah's potent version, Chatham Artillery Punch.
Iced tea's popularity parallels the
development of refrigeration: the ice house, the icebox
(refrigerator), and the commercial manufacture of pure ice, which
were in place by the middle of the nineteenth century. The term
"refrigerator" was used for the first patented ice box in 1830 and
were common in the mid 19th century in the United States
1839
- The 1839 cookbook, The Kentucky Housewife, by Mrs. Lettice
Bryanon, was typical of the American tea punch recipes:
Tea Punch - Make a
pint and a half of very strong tea in the usual manner; strain
it, and pour it boiling (hot) on one pound and a quarter of loaf
sugar. (That's 2 1/2 cups white sugar) Add half a pint of rich
sweet cream, and then stir in gradually a bottle of claret or of
champaign (sic). You may heat it to the boiling point, and serve
it so, or you may send it round entirely cold, in glass cups.
1879
- The oldest sweet tea recipe (ice tea) in print comes from a
community cookbook called Housekeeping in Old Virginia, by
Marion Cabell Tyree, published in 1879:
Ice Tea. - After
scalding the teapot, put into it one quart of boiling water and
two teaspoonfuls green tea. If wanted for supper, do this at
breakfast. At dinner time, strain, without stirring, through a
tea strainer into a pitcher. Let it stand till tea time and pour
into decanters, leaving the sediment in the bottom of the
pitcher. Fill the goblets with ice, put two teaspoonfuls
granulated sugar in each, and pour the tea over the ice and
sugar. A squeeze of lemon will make this delicious and
healthful, as it will correct the astringent tendency.
1884
- This may be the first printed recipe using black tea, which has
become so universal today, and could also be the earliest version of
pre-sweetened iced tea, the usual way of making it in the South
today. Mrs. D. A. (Mary) Lincoln, director of the Boston Cooking
School, published Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book: What to Do and
What Not to Do in Cooking in 1884. On page 112, there it is:
iced tea, proving that the drink was not just a Southern drink.
Ice Tea or Russian
Tea - Make the tea by the first receipt, strain it from the
grounds, and keep it cool. When ready to serve, put two cubes of
block sugar in a glass, half fill with broken ice, add a slice
of lemon, and fill the glass with cold tea.
1890
- Professor Lyndon N. Irwin, of Southwest Missouri
State University and a member of the St. Louis World's Fair Society,
found an article from the September 28, 1890 issue of the Nevada
Noticer newspaper regarding the 1890 Missouri State Reunion of
Ex-Confederate Veterans. This article clearly states that iced tea
had been around prior to1890. The article states the following:
"The following
figures will convey some idea of the amount of provision used a
Camp Jackson during the recent encampment. There were 4,800
pounds of bread, 11,705 pounds of beef, 407 pounds of ham, 21
sheep, 600 pounds of sugar, 6 bushels of beans, 60 gallon of
pickles, and a wagonload of potatoes. It was all washed down
with 2,220 gallons of coffee and 880 gallons of iced tea. The
committee expended $3,000, a little in excess of the amount
subscribed, for the entertainment of the old soldiers."
1893
- The 1893 Chicago World's
Fair, also called the Columbian Exposition, had a
concessionair that grossed over $2,000 selling iced tea and
lemonade.
The Home Queen World's Fair
Souvenir Cookbook - Two Thousand Valuable Recipes on Cookery and
Household Economy, Menus, Table Etiquette, Toilet, Etc. Contributed
by Two Hundred World's Fair Lady Managers, Wives of Governors and
Other Ladies of Position and Influence, compiled by Miss Juliet
Corson includes a recipe for variations on serving iced tea.
1895
- The Enterprising Manufacturing Co. of Pennsylvania distributed its
popular recipe booklet called The Enterprising Housekeeper by Helen
Louise Johnson. In the recipe booklet, they advertise their popular
ice shredders and its many uses. One use was
"for your iced tea."
20th Century
1900s
- After 1900, iced tea became commonplace in cookbooks, and
black tea began replacing green as the preferred tea for serving
cold. The preference for black over green tea in an iced beverage
came with of import of inexpensive black tea exports from India,
Ceylon, South America, and Africa.
1904
- It was at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis that iced tea was
popularized and commercialized (not invented).
Due to the hot summer of 1904, people ignored any hot drinks and
went in search of cold drinks, including iced tea.
Because of this, it changed the way the
rest of Americans thought of tea, thus popularizing iced tea.
Most
historians mistakenly give credit to Richard Blechynden, India Tea
Commissioner and Director of the East Indian Pavilion, as being the
creator of ice tea at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis. In
the East Indian Pavilion at the Fair, Blechynden was offering free
hot tea to everyone. Because of the intense heat, it was soon
realized that the heat prevented the crowd from drinking his hot
tea. Blechynden and his team took the brewed India tea, filled
several large bottles, and placed them on stands upside down - thus
allowing the tea to flow through iced lead pipes. This free iced tea
was very much welcomed by the thirsty fair goers. After the fair,
Blechynden took his lead pipe apparatus to New York City, offering
free iced tea to shoppers at Bloomingdale Brothers Department Store,
demonstrating iced tea is a desirable summertime drink.
According
to the book Beyond The Ice Cream Cone - The Whole Scoop on Food
at the 1904 World's Fair by Pamela J. Vaccaro:
Both hot tea and
iced tea appeared on most restaurant menus at the Fair - at the
Barbecue, Fair Japan, the Old Irish Parliament House, the
Louisiana and Texas Rice Kitchen, Mrs. Rorer's East Pavilioin
Cafe, and so on. It is highly unlikely that all these
restaurants jumped on the bandwagon of Blechynden's "new idea,"
and scurried to the print shops to have their menus reprinted!
What really "stirs
the pot" is that "Richard Blechynden" was listed as an official
concessionaire (No. 325) "to serve tea in cups and packages" at
the Chicago World's Fair in 1893 - 11 years before the one in
St. Louis. The financial records from the exposition do not list
any ledger entries for Blechynden - which raises the question of
whether he actually showed up or was just late with his report.
But, if he had been there, it would have been odd that he would
not have realized that his product was already being sold in hot
and cold versions. It would likewise be odd that, in the 11
intervening years, he would have been totally oblivious to the
drinkls inclusion in cookbooks and on menus.
1917
- By World War I, Americans were buying special tall iced tea
glasses, long spoons, and lemon forks. By the 1930s, people were
commonly referring to the tall goblet in crystal sets as an "iced
tea" glass.
1920-1933 - The
American
Prohibition (1920-1933) helped boost the popularity of iced tea
because average Americans were forced to find alternatives to
illegal beer, wine, and alcohol. Iced tea recipes begin appearing
routinely in most southern cookbooks during this time.
1928
- In the southern cookbook, Southern Cooking, by Henrietta
Stanley Dull (Mrs. S.R. Dull), Home Ecomonics Editor for the Atlanta
Journal, gives the recipe that remained standard in the South for
decades thereafter. It is a regional book that very much
resemblances the many “church” or “ladies society” cookbooks of that
era.
TEA - Freshly
brewed tea, after three to five minutes' infusion, is essential
if a good quality is desired. The water, as for coffee, should
be freshly boiled and poured over the tea for this short time .
. . The tea leaves may be removed when the desired strength is
obtained . . . Tea, when it is to be iced, should be made much
stronger, to allow for the ice used in chilling. A medium
strength tea is usually liked. A good blend and grade of black
tea is most popular for iced tea, while green and black are used
for hot . . . To sweeten tea for an iced drink-less sugar is
required if put in while tea is hot, but often too much is made
and sweetened, so in the end there is more often a waste than
saving . . . Iced tea should be served with or without lemon,
with a sprig of mint, a strawberry, a cherry, a slice of orange,
or pineapple. This may be fresh or canned fruit. Milk is not
used in iced tea.
1941
- During World War II, the major sources of green
tea were cut off from the United States, leaving us with tea almost
exclusively from British-controlled India, which produces black tea.
Americans came out of the war drinking nearly 99 percent black tea.
1995
- South Carolina's grown tea was officially adopted as the
Official Hospitality Beverage by State Bill 3487, Act No. 31 of the
111th Session of the South Carolina General Assembly on April 10,
1995.
21st Century
2003
- Georgia State Representative, John Noel, and four
co-sponsors, apparently as an April Fools' Day joke, introduced
House Bill 819, proposing to require all Georgia restaurants that
serve tea to serve sweet tea. Representative John Noel, one of the
sponsors, is said to have acknowledged that
the bill was an attempt to bring humor to the Legislature, but
wouldn't mind if it became law. The text of the bill
proposes:
(a) As used in this Code section,
the term 'sweet tea' means iced tea which is sweetened with
sugar at the time that it is brewed.
(b) Any food service
establishment which served iced tea must serve sweet tea. Such
an establishment may serve unsweetened tea but in such case must
also serve sweet tea.
(c) Any person who violates this
Code section shall be guilty of a misdemeanor of a high and
aggravated nature.
SOURCES:
1904 St. Louis Worlds Fair - The Iced
Tea Question, by Lyndon N. Irwin,
http://www.lyndonirwin.com/1904%20Tea.htm, an internet web site.
Andre Michaux,
http://www.michaux.org/michaux.htm#prin,
an internet web site.
Beyond the Ice Cream Cone - The
Whole Scoop on food at the 1904 World's Fair, by Pamela J. Vaccaro,
Enid Press, St. Louis, 2004.
Boston Cooking School Cook
Book, by Mrs. D.A. Lincoln, Dover Publications, Inc., New York, 1996
Reprint.
GA: Food Establishments
Must Serve Sweet Tea!, Political State Report, Tuesday, April 1,
2003,
http://www.polstate.com/archives/002222.html, an internet web
site.
Georgia General Assembly, House
Bill 819,
http://www.legis.state.ga.us/legis/2003_04/search/hb819.htm,
an internet web site.
Iced Tea, a
Year-Round Tradition, Southern U.S. Cuisine, by Diana Rattray,
http://www.anythingsouthern.com/frameset.asp?Address=http://southernfood.about.com/food/southernfood/library/weekly/aa061700a.htm,
an internet web site.
I'll Have What
They're Having - Legendary Local Cuisine, by Linda Stradley,
Globe Pequot Press, 2002.
http://whatscookingamerica.net/PURCASE2.htm, an internet web
site.
Mint Museum of Art in Charlotte, NC,
Features Works by Pierre-Joseph Redouté, April Issue 2002, from
Carolina Arts Magazine, by Shoestring Publishing Company, Bonneau,
SC,
http://www.carolinaarts.com/402mint.html,
an internet web site.
Negative Space, Southern Cooking, by Jerry's
Diner Review,
http://www.hoboes.com/html/Diner/revue/dull.shtml, an internet
web site.
South Carolina General Assembly, 111th Session,
1995-1996,
http://www.lpitr.state.sc.us/sess111_1995-1996/bills/3487.htm,
an internet web site.
Steeped in Tradition - Sweetened or not, Iced
tea is Southerners' drink of choice, by Linda Dailey Paulson, writer
for Atlanta-Journal Constitution newspaper.
Taste of Luzianne,
Luzianne Tea,
http://www.luzianne.com/more_icedtea_uncovered.cfm, an internet
web site.